Marmaris is one of the world's greatest
sailingcentres. The only problem is that when you
reach the head of the almostland-locked natural
harbour that is the Bay of Marmaris, you have
todecide whether to sail Southwest-Northwest towards
Borzburun and Bodrum,or Southeast-Northeast towards
Gocek, Fethiye, Gemiler, Kalkan, and Kas.In a single
week there is no way that you can do justice to the
area.This is the best that we can suggest! The
itinerary is in order as youleave Marmaris. Kumlu
Buku is still within Marmaris Bay. Two pairs
ofanchorages are very close together. Near to
Marmaris, Ciftlik andGerbekse and within a mile of
each other, and Serce and Kale Koy withina couple of
miles of each other. We have therefore set out the
itineraryas though it were a one-way trip.
Day 1: Marmaris
Marmaris is at the head of a marvellous
land-locked bay. It is a major resort town with
countless restaurants, bars, and nightclubs. To
eat out, we particularly recommend Neighbours,
which is very inexpensive, and Caria. Both are
just over the bridge as you leave the marina for
Marmaris Town. Also worth a visit is La Campana,
on the first floor of the building on the left
just as you are leaving the marina. Pineapple is
a pleasant spot too, particularly for a lazy
lunch. Steer clear of their pizza though. The
supermarket in the Marina is no dearer than
other shops although the range of goods on offer
is not that great. There are two provision
stores just over the bridge on leaving the
marina, both of which deliver to your yacht at
the marina without charge. (You hitch a ride on
the back of their scooter!) The best chandlery
is also just over the bridge on the right. You
can also somethimes buy fresh fish there too,
but that is pretty hit and miss! |
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Day 2: Ciftlik
This is a very convenient first stop if you
are travelling from Marmaris towards Bodrum. The
bay is very well protected and has numerous
jetties and restaurants on shore. Limited
provisions are also available, and if you are
lucky you may be able to buy fresh fish straight
from the fishermen. There is a market here that
targets the residents of the large hotel
complex. We have regularly experienced
particularly strong winds on the passage from
Marmaris to here and the neighbouring anchorage
at Gerbeske, so be watchful! |
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Day 3: Bozu Kale
Bozukale is 15nm for Marmaris. The Citadel at
the entrance is a truly magnificent sight. The
inlet is much larger than nearby Serce, and has
an even greater collection of beach restaurants,
none of which we have so far tried. We have
often anchored most of the way down the port
side of the bay in a small cove, that used to
have yet another restaurant, but now abandoned.
The view is fantastic with the little beach,the
Citadel, and the byzantine ruins all in sight,
backed by the mountains - definitely one of our
favourites. Although the bay seems very
sheltered, in a southerly gale a surprising
amount of swell manages to work its way in, and
we have also spent some sleepless nights here.
It is also an enchanting place to stay for a
cuople of days, if time permits. There are some
interesting walks on the shore and in the hills,
meandering among the byzantine ruins or further
inland in the valley at the end of the bay. |
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Day 4: Kumlu Buku
Kumlu Buku is a couple of hours from Marmaris
marina. The village there has nothing much to
recommend it, and there are no shops.
However,the restaurant there has a pontoon with
light and water. There are lazy lines to which
you can tie up. The restaurant here is very
nice,the food is very good, but pricey by local
standards. If however you use their facilities,
for which they do not charge, it seems only fair
to eat there. There is much to be said for using
it as your last port of call on the way home.
You can have a really good last night,have a
swim, and make your way gently back to Marmaris.
Kumlubuk, a turquoise paradise, lies on the
southern side of the bay. On the northern side,
above the water, stands the ancient Rhodian city
of Amos. Loryma, at the tip of the Bozburun
Peninsula, where the ruins of the ancient harbor
and castle remain, can only be reached by boat.
Natural quiet bays and scattered islands
punctuate the northern shore of the peninsula,
ideal for those who want to get away from it
all. |
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Day 5: Serce
Serce is 13nm from Gerbekse or Ciftlik. It is a
fairly large intlet with restaurants at either end of
it, both which offer moorings. The man in the row boat
also usually takes your stern-line and seures it for
you. The expectation is of course that you will eat at
their restaurant. We did not eat well at Memos Farm, and
it was quite expensive, but that may have been an off
day. There are fishing boats based here, and the range
of fish offered was much greater than usual. Serce has
managed to retain much of its wild charm, aided by the
small fleet of inshore fishing boats, and the sight of
the womenfolk gathering wild sage on the hillsides.
Yacht tourism may provide much of the cash income, but
old traditional Turkey is very visible too.
Day 6: Bozborun
Ensconced among the green mountains of the Datca
Peninsula, Bozburun is a charming little habour at the
end of some wonderful sheltered bays. It is totally
sheltered by the hills and mountains behind it. While it
is possible to swim, there is no official beach in
Bozburun. The main industry is the building of new
gulets and also their maintenance. It is interesting
watching the ship builders on the waterfront assemble
the wooden skeletons of embryonic boats in the shadows
of the towering cliffs that stand guard over Bozborun.
The harbour is very small, and it is very often
difficult to get a mooring, but one can always anchor in
one of the bays. Water is available at the quay and also
mains power. There are several restaurants on shore, of
which Osmans is well worth a visit. You can get
provisions, including bread and cakes from a small
bakery. There are also several chandlers. Although
generally not highly rated in the pilot books, it is a
place of considerable charm. Judge it by the images
recorded here, and remember that there are several
charming overnight anchorages in the bay ,just outside
Bozborun.