Days 1 to 8
Day 3: Akbuk
One of the best anchorages is the splendidly scenic Akbuk which is hidden behind a forrested promontory. Sedir Island with its gorgeous beach are also a most beautiful stop. The excellent cosy restaurants are as good a reason as any to linger for a tasty meal after an afternoon of snorkeling and diving. Sedir Island ancient Cedrai boasts an incredible beach with fine sand composed of fossils, and a splendid view of the Kiran mountains across the bay. As you sail along the island's southwestern coast, forests stretch out to meet the deep inlets of the bays. The jagged coastline, known as the Bay of Sixty-six Inlets, seems to have emerged from the oft told tales of pirates. This largish inlet is also an option on your first night after leaving Bodrum. Allow about 7 hours for the trip. The prevailing wind helps speed you here. All along the western shore, there is a series of small bays offering peace and adequate shelter. Chose the one that you like the best, and where someone else has not got there before you! Beware though, the bays are very shallow by local standards and there are numerous underwater obstacles like dead treetrunks under water just waiting to snag the anchors of the unwary. The western shore of Akbuk cove is bare. The east is forested and has numerous fine sand beaches. It is situated north of the Gulf of Gulluk. The lower slopes of Mount Saplatan form natural rock walls around the cove. Extending into the sea from north to south in front of these cliffs is the Saph Ada peninsula, which provides secure anchorage. Anchorage: Points of bearing which can be seen from a distance are the holiday villas between Akbuk cove and the anchorage point, and the wooded hills of Saph Ada peninsula. Approach the beach from the east of the peninsula, and anchor in the muddy bottom at 3 - 4 metres opposite the square grey house. This anchorage is sheltered from the north wind, but not safe when south winds are blowing, in which case anchor off Akbuk cove.
Day 4: Castle Island/Snake Island
Just across the Gulf from Akbuk are Snake Island and Castle Island. Like so many places along this incredible coast, this place is littered with Lycian remains. The bay on Castle Island is very crowded by the day with tripper boats taking crowds to Cleopatra's Beach. This tiny bay has sand that Cleopatra reputedly had brought from Egypt for her lover Anthony, and indeed experts have confirmed that it does seem to come from North Africa. Shallow close in-shore, you have to anchor some way off and endure the comings and goings. We were also shocked at the amount that we are asked to pay to land and visit the ruins. None of us are mean, and all of us are keen to support what Turkey does to protect its astonishing cultural heritage, but the price asked for the modest amount on offer here kept us firmly on our yacht! At six o'clock not only had all the tripper boats left, but to our total astonishment, so had all the yachts as well. The one photograph we have is of sunset that magical evening. Truly something to remember. The water here was warm and pleasantly milky in what had been a cool spring.
Day 5: Sogut/Kekova
We have called it this to distinguish it from the other Sogut that yachtsmen might visit on the same voyage near Bozburun. There is a little development here, with a holiday village and organised water sports. There are numerous restaurants, dolmus running everywhere, and generally quite a little buzz. The bay is exceptionally protected and some yachts over-winter here. Setur - a large local charter operator has a base here. They have taken over one of the landing piers. It is impossible not to like Sogut, and we would willingly have just lazed around for a while.
Day 6: Degirmen/EnglishHarbour
This is another of those truly astonishing inlets that the Gulf of Gokova affords. This is a largish area with a wide variety of possible hidey holes. The best known one, and the one also named in the title, is English Harbour. It got its name from being used as a base for British Motor Torpedo Boats in the Second World War. Although affording excellent shelter in an idyllic location, we did not stay. There was another yacht there, but the main reasons were that there was a good deal of debris along the shore - probably the fault of tripper boats or gulets - but also because the water was rather murky. The East Cove has two welcoming restaurants, both of which offer fairly extensive provisioning. We stopped at the first of them because it offered completely wonderful views over the inlet. It was from here that the illustration was taken. Dinner was excellent, with the poor fish swimming in a tank one moment, only to be on our plates a few minites later. Water and electricity were both free and very welcome. It is here that we most strongly felt the relative decline of Bodrum as a charter centre. The restaurant infrastructure was significant, we were there in early June peak season, and there was only one other yacht there. If you can get a charter out of Bodrum, you will get much more peace in the Gulf of Gokova than nearer Marmaris, and much more than near Gocek. Horses for courses! No dolmus service here, but you can get a taxi.
Day 7: Seven Islands
Yedi Adlari Seven Islands is the name given to a chain just offshore. Access is simple enough by day, but not to be attempted at night. Our preferred anchorage is the one in the North Cove, but there is not much space there and therefore it is often full. The fact that it is shallow at the head further restricts the number of yachts that can anchor there. The Eastern end of East Creek Creek is a delightfully secluded spot, and if you follow Pilot Book instructions carefully, there is plenty of water, but you do need to follow those instructions or you will be hard aground. The creek is rather narrow, and that made anchoring and taking a line astern more than a little problematic. The only choice is swinging free. Since it is also quite deep, the amount of chain that needed, left us concerned about the effects of an overnight wind change. We moved after dinner to the anchorage on the south side of the East Creek, and were secure enough there in the strong winds blowing at the time. There are no restaurants that we noted here
Day 8: Kormen
Not likely to figure at the top of many people's list of perfect places to visit, there are two main reasons it might find its way to somebody's itinerary. Firstly, there is an excellent fish restaurant there - if rather on the pricey side secondly, if you have been all the way up the Gulf of Gokova and are in a bit of a hurry to get back to Marmaris or Orhaniye, it can be a convenient stopping off place! This would only be true if the much more attractive Mersincik was out of reach, or you needed water. You should forget about going in to the first harbour. It is no longer in regular use, and even the most recent Heikell is out of date on that subject! Getting in and out can however be a bit of an adventure. While we were there a Turkish flagged yacht came in with most sails still standing, and the bimini flapping as rags in the wind. It is good shelter though.